Why we all love The Row AW20

The Row AW20 New York Fashion Week

The one show that dominated my NYFW social feeds? The Row AW20. One wag described it as “the same collection I’ve been seeing for the last six seasons.” No matter; its predictable self-assured minimalism and quiet tailoring offer something of a sartorial salve in troubled times. And after all, anti-fashion is the new Fashion. (Or something.) Highlights were the floor-nuzzling trench coats, collarless boxy jackets and full-legged pants. Plus more rollnecks layered under unadulterated shirting (also trending this season, fyi).

The Row AW20 New York Fashion Week

Also noteworthy at NYFW: , aka ‘The American Hermes’; Debbie Harry singing ‘Dreaming’ at Coach (possibly even more exciting than the Jean-Michel Basquiat500的彩真的 collab and the downtown eighties styling); and ’ New York nostalgia dressed up in a contemporary dance-off…

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl
IMAGES: The Row AW20
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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Trend Report: What to wear for SS20

while many say that commercial ‘seasons’ are redundant, i still get new season vibes just before fashion week. i think it makes me focused on the newness out there, plus the days are getting longer and i just want to let the light in my life, dammit!

however, new season to me rarely means a total ‘in then out’ about turn from the previous season. that kind of thinking has become outmoded lately anyway, as desirability has become “ and coupled with knowledge, a story, belonging, and transformative potential to make us better humans.” instead, this new season edit is an excuse to fill any gaps with updates rather than total novelty. here’s what’s on my radar for ss20…

1/ UNDONE TRENCH. Trench coats for spring? Clearly not ground-breaking, but I like the new relaxed, slouchy macs and trenches, designed less for harsh weather and more for wearing undone whilst sipping a matcha latte al fresco. * has a soft, washed effect, while (below) is like wearing an uplifting Instagram filter. I’m also digging the easy-breezy cuts of these coats (below) by Paul Smith and Auralee.

Paul Smith SS20
Auralee ss20

In the world of luxury, there’s been an eco and ethical backlash to leather, fur and exotic skins. PETA has completed its anti-fur campaign, considering its work there ‘done’ and is now doubling down on leather and wool. In response, Selfridges has banned exotic skins from its buy and there’s been a huge rise of people buying their classic leather bags on the resale market (e.g. Farfetch’s new *). While luxury brands navigate this shift, I’ve noticed an uptick in canvas bags (albeit with leather trims). Not as hard-wearing as leather, obviously, and better suited to light summer use, I like these from * and *. This pre-loved * is also great, as well as likely to hold its value if you decide to flip it for something else later. Or for the much more affordable option, I’ve just discovered these gems from *.

I’m thinking how to evolve my short hair and I’m liking some of the feathery cuts around. Ana Gimeno Brugada always nails this look, plus the Dries van Noten models are looking great as well. Screenshotted!!
Ana Gimeno Brugada hair
Dries van Noten

Double-breasted blazers have been kicking around for a good while. Seen at Dior men for a few seasons, we’re getting our own scaled-down versions from Celine, Givenchy and Proenza Schouler (scaled up in their case). Or for the no-frills workaday option, check out *.
Celine ss20 double breasted blazer
Givenchy ss20
Proenza Schouler ss20

. If you’re planning to park the puffer for spring, but feel like you still need some sort of armour to battle the slings and arrows, then an oversized hoodie serves as a fitting piece of combat-wear. I like these graphic Burberry striped hoodies (below) and I’ve been living in my navy men’s Agnes b hoodie this winter (half price ). Personally I’m big a fan of the . Italic, the factory-to-consumer brand that specialises in classics (I mentioned them in last spring’s trend round-up) have a classic black ‘’ for $50 – remember to size up.
Burberry ss20

. Shoe-wise, I’ve been looking at mid-heels. I feel like we’ve reached peak trainer but I don’t relish the return of Tribute heels. So I quite like these walkable Almond pumps from * and the chunky-heeled sling backs from * – a good match with an ankle-swinging straight leg *.

. New beauty texture alert! I think this has come from Japan (please correct me if I’m wrong); it’s an unctuous, super-thick jelly texture cleanser that’s very satisfying for an end-of-day makeup remover cleanse. Glossier’s Milky Jelly cleanser is my current rave, and I’ve heard good things about Beauty Pie’s * gel-to-oil-to-milk cleanser. New to market is , while Chanel’s r* (£85, below) is on the fantasy cleanser list for when I win the lottery.

. A no-frills shirt is never a bad move. I like the starched look at the moment, especially a bit on the big side. Unbuttoned over a roll neck is another good look, nailed by The Row (below). * and combats combo (below) is a good alternative to white. And I’d love to see a minimalist version of this Caroline Herrera stick-of-rock stripe (below).
The Row ss20

Caroline Herrera ss20 stripe shirts

To accompany the unadulterated shirt, I’m into the idea of a chunky chain or two. Sophie Buhai (below) remains the queen of minimalist chain-wear, while *, * and * (bottom) are also on my radar. Amp up your white pocket shirt with a * and a maximalist * cuff watch if you think you’re hard enough…
Sophie Buhai chain bracelet

10/ LE BEAUTY OBJET. The Hermès lipstick line drops on March 4th and I’m as excited about the accompanying accessories as I am about the Pierre Hardy-designed clunk-click casing. To elevate the Hermès lipstick experience just that bit more, there are two leather lipstick cases, including this calf skin pop-up lipstick case in vibrant vermillion (below) and a sibling case with an integrated mirror. I think we’re going to see more of this upscale lipstick-as-luxury-beauty-accessory trend, now that no-one seems to balk at £40+ lipsticks. (Note: the Hermès lipsticks are refillable, so in theory you only pay the ‘full’ price once.) (Full disclosure: I’m still not over the Valentino lipstick minaudiere from 2017.)
Hermes pop up leather lipstick case


WORDS: Disneyrollergirl
IMAGES: Arket x 2; Paul Smith; Auralee; Ana Gimeno Brugada; Dries van Noten; Celine, Givenchy, Proenza Schouler, Burberry; Chanel, The Row; Arket; Caroline Herrera; Sophie Buhai; Versace; Hermès beauty x 2
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman

The culture of fashion: Georgia O’Keeffe’s wardrobe for sale

Georgia O'Keeffe - Todd Webb

I have tons of Georgia O’Keeeffe pictures on my Pinterest board as research for a project. Her personal style was just fantastic – those shirts! The hats! The kimonos! The hair!

has a sale of a number of her personal artefacts coming up, including dresses, jewellery, coats and a fabulous velvet hood. What’s remarkable to me is that apparently some of these pieces were hand-sewn by Georgia O’Keeffe herself. (more…)

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